Updates added 9/30/2012 Lots of articles, scroll down to find one you are needing or interested in
Do Your Research!!!
ancestors of today’s Australian Shepherd may have migrated with Basque
shepherds from continental Europe directly to North America. The blue
merle color phase is still present in the modern Berger des Pyréneés.
The breed may have acquired its name via Australia where the Basques are
known to have accumulated larger flocks of sheep. By whatever path,
Aussies had arrived in the United States by the late 19th century where
the dogs’ qualities became recognized by local ranchers, who used the
dogs to work cattle, sheep and other livestock.
ability was the paramount consideration during the early years, rather
than any particular conformation but a distinct breed of moderate coat
and size, superb herding instinct and often of unusual blue merle
coloring emerged, still bearing a marked resemblance to Pyrenean
ancestors, although undoubtedly influenced by various British and
American working breeds, such as the Scotch Collie, Border Collie and
English Shepherd. The "little blue dogs" were soon highly esteemed on
ranches and farms throughout western America.
Sisler popularized the Aussie with the American public through his
trick dog acts performed at rodeos throughout the United States during
the 1950’s and 1960’s. His dogs also appeared in movies and several
figure prominently in the pedigrees of the modern Australian Shepherd.
Aussie is a relative newcomer to purebred registries, only being
formally recorded since 1957. The first organization to register the
Australian Shepherd was the National Stock Dog Registry (AKA
International English Shepherd Registry). The Australian Shepherd Club
of America (ASCA) established recording services in 1971, taking over a
majority of Aussie registrations. ASCA adopted a unified breed standard
A Small Australian Shepherd
During the 1960’s, a Californian
Australian Shepherd enthusiast acquired several small working Aussies
from the rodeo circuit. Intrigued by their compact size, she worked with
a veterinarian to develop a breeding program in order to preserve the
trait, which quickly resulted in litters producing both dogs only 13 to
14 inches tall as well as larger Australian Shepherds. The smaller dogs
eventually became known as "miniature" Australian Shepherds.
mini Aussie soon attracted the attention of experienced Australian
Shepherd breeders and eager newcomers. Lines were researched and
educated breeding to full-size Aussies was and is strongly encouraged to
diversify the gene pool and improve conformation and type of the mini
Aussies. Herding instinct, intelligence and drive were preserved and
many mini Aussies continue to work a variety of livestock today.
The Early Days of Recognition
The first registry to accept the Miniature
Australian Shepherd was the National Stock Dog Registry (NSDR): the
same to first recognize the Australian Shepherd. Cordova’s Spike, a 15
inch blue merle male, was the first mini Aussie to be registered.
Acceptance was next achieved with the now defunct Rare Breed Kennel Club
(RBKC) in the 1980’s. Croswhite's Miss Kitty Fox, a blue merle NSDR
registered bitch of true Aussie type, secured the first Miniature
Australian Shepherd championship.
the RBKC folded in the early 1990’s, the mini Aussie gained acceptance
with the American Rare Breed Association (ARBA). Unfortunately, ARBA
regulations stipulated that in order for a breed to qualify for Group
and Best in Show competition, it could not have a name associated with
an AKC breed. So in 1993, when the Australian Shepherd was granted full
show privileges in the AKC’s Herding Group, one group of mini Aussie
enthusiasts opted to change the mini Aussie’s name, a move which caused
great confusion in the dog world and for the general public and
eventually led to the development of a separate and distinct breed from
the Australian Shepherd called the North American Shepherd.
with the limited show schedule offered by any one club, enthusiasts
attempted to secure wider recognition. However, it soon became apparent
that acceptance could not be gained under the new name because it
implied a new breed. In actuality, the mini Aussie remained a size
variety of the Australian Shepherd, with a continuous genepool, and not a
separate breed. Those concerned with maintaining Australian Shepherd
heritage, instinct, temperament and type, and interested in pursuing
further recognition formed a Miniature Australian Shepherd parent club
in order to attain these goals.
The ideal Miniature Australian Shepherd is the mirror image of the Australian Shepherd, only in a smaller, calmer package. Their size ranges from 14" to 18" tall for the Miniature and 13" and smaller for the Toy. They are compact and well balanced; very athletic and alert. They are in the Hearding Group and can be seen in the Breed and Obedience show ring, as well as in the home as a supremely devoted companion.
They come in a variety of coat and eye colors. The Blue Merle has patches and patterns of black on a background varying from slate gray to powder blue. The Red Merle has patches and patterns of red on a cream colored background. The Black has a solid black body.
They may have white trim, in which case they would be a Black Bi, or black, copper and white, which would be a Black Tri. The Reds vary in intensity from a deep mahogany to a brownish-red color. As with the Blacks, a Red and white is known as a Red Bi; add copper points and the dog is a Red Tri.
Their eyes may be blue, brown, amber, or one blue, one brown, flecked or marbled. Tails are sometimes natural bobs, longer ones are docked.
They are sensitive, easily trained, excellent natural guardians of the home and they possess varing degrees of herding instincts. They are calm and confident, usually suspicious of strangers. They are entirely devoted to their masters and will go to great lengths to please them. Their unique size makes them perfectly suited to our growing urbon lifestyle, as well as making excellent traveling companions. With their many attributes you will find this amazingly versatile and affectionate companion great with children. They are a devoted friend and guardian, for they are naturally protective. They are eager to please and seem to have a sixth sense about what the owner wants.
Their coat is easy to groom and needs little attention. Brush occasionally with a firm bristle brush and bathe only when necessary. They are a average shedder.
Miniature Australian Shepherds are loving and devoted companions to their families but are generally reserved with strangers. This natural reserve means that this is not the dog that will bound up to strangers to be petted, but instead will stand firmly by your side until introductions are made and the Mini Aussie sees that the stranger is acceptable to you. While this trait makes them wonderful guardians of home and family, it does require early socialization with people outside the family. Their intelligence and loving nature make it easy for them to form strong bonds with their family.
The Mini Aussie is a herding dog with strong natural instincts. Unfocused, this herding instinct may be used inappropriately to herd small animals (like cats) and children. Chasing bicyclists, or other fast-moving objects is often appealing to them as well, and should be curbed as a young puppy. A herding dog will often nip at the heels of livestock to get them moving, and many puppies may try this on their humans as well. Teaching the Mini Aussie not to chase, herd or nip at these inappropriate targets will not subdue their natural instinct to herd livestock.
The Mini aussie is not a "busy" dog that is in constant motion but they are a high energy dog that needs a purpose or a job to do. Basic training in Obedience is strongly recommended as a means to teach dog and owner how to work together. Playing and exercise should be a daily routine with the Mini Aussie. Small jobs around the house keep the MAS’ mind and body challenged, such as picking up the newspaper, or finding toys.
The Mini Aussie is a fun, intelligent, highly motivated dog with a great sense of humor and play. Bringing a Mini Aussie into your home and family can be a rewarding experience for years to come.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- WHY Co-Own or partner on a puppy with 74 Ranch???
Benefits to Breeder: We can only keep so many dogs at our own home yet we have some awesome puppies that we would like to keep in our program. A co-own/partner home allows us to do that. We do a strict personality (Suzanne Clothier method) and structure (Pat Hastings method) evaluation at 8 weeks. There may be more than 1 puppy in that litter that evaluates as show/breed yet we would not keep 2 puppies in our home at a time, for their sake. We would like to place those show/breed puppies in pet homes that are willing to keep them intact until 18-24 months old that are close by for us to watch grow up and make a final decision at that time. We also try to have the puppy shown so being close by helps us deliver or pick up the puppy to show or helps the pet owner be close enough to go to the shows themselves.
Benefits to Buyer: You buy a super high quality puppy for a lower price than a pet puppy. You get to pick your puppy by the color and sex you want, if you are agreeable to either a pet or show/breed/co-own. The show/breed puppy homes get priority. Contracts are flexible so be sure to talk to us about what you be willing to do and we will see if we can agree on it. If you are wanting to get into showing/breeding, we will mentor you along. If at an earlier time than 18-24 months, the breeder decides not to keep the dog in their breeding program for any particular reason the dog may be spayed or neutered at buyer's expense. It will be considered your pet and will reside at your home pretty much it's whole life (other than if we need to borrow it for showing or breeding reasons). You will be responsible for feeding, vet care, socialization, etc. just like any other pet you may own.
Basic points: 1) Buyer keeps puppy intact (not spayed or neutered) until at least 2 years of age 2) Dog is in our name, you are the co-owner on the dog. It will be transferred and released into your name as soon as we both make the decision to spay or neuter 3) Puppy is show/breed evaluated in personality AND structure at 8 weeks old, not just one or the other. We will also only keep or put puppies from a pretty consistent litter in co-own homes. 4) Between the two of us we will try to get the puppy in the show ring to earn a Championship (or a title in a performance event) 5) Dog will have tests done at 2 years old if it will be used for breeding. We will only breed 1-3 litters on females. Males can be intact for a certain amount of time if that's how the buyer wants it, we can discuss that. Tests to be done: OFA (hips), CERF, HC and PRA (eyes) and MDR1 (drug sensitivity). Dog will also have another structure evaluation at this age and personality evaluation if breeder feels necessary, paid for by the breeder. Only about 50% of the prospects will ever be bred. If breeder decides dog hasn't matured quite as well as expected or testing comes back unsatisfactory for breeding, the dog will be neutered/spayed at the cost of the buyer and full ownership will be given to the buyer/co-owner 6) Breeder will help arrange getting female to the male or do so themselves. 7) Whelping a female is flexible - we can do it and send back at 10 days or keep them until weaning and place them from here or you can whelp and we will place. We will hope to get to the litter to evaluate them, personality and structure, before placing in new homes. There is a lot of work we expect to have done with the puppies and will mentor you through it. 8) Testing, registration, stud fees, etc. are breeder's/seller's responsibility (and expense). We will discuss if the buyer will get to keep any of the puppies in the litter or how much they will receive per stud fee, before the contract is signed.
If you decide you are interested in co-owning or giving it a try, please contact 74 Ranch and we can visit with you more about it.
NUTRITION and HEALTH:
What we feed:
We at 74 Ranch feed Nature's Variety Instinct Frozen Raw and Kibble. WE start our puppies on Nature's Variety Prairie Puppy then graduate to the Raw. We highly recommend it!!!
Peakview Aussies feeds Dick Van Patten Natural Balance Ultra.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- FOR HEALTH: We use Young Living Essential Oils when we can to help us avoid trips to the vet and for uptimum health in our dogs!!!
We are independant distributors, so if you are interested in knowing more or trying them, let us know!
Veterinarian Dr. Mary Hess Pet First Aid Kit Recommendations
Veterinarian Dr. Mary Hess of Madison,
Wisconsin, recommends that every pet owner carry an essential oil
emergency kit for pets. Based on her experience as a veterinarian, Dr.
Hess suggests these ten Young Living Essential Oil blends to keep pets feeling their best.
Purification®: This blend is useful for external parasites such as fleas, ticks, and mosquitoes.
Thieves®: Perfect for attending to minor wounds,
abrasions, and lacerations, Thieves is also utilized for addressing
dental concerns. This blend is safe for kittens and puppies.
Melrose™: When used in conjunction with R.C. and
Raven, Melrose provides respiratory support. It can also be used on
minor wounds, abrasions, and lacerations if Thieves cannot be tolerated.
R.C.™: Ideal for respiratory and urinary tract
support, R.C is practical for cats that require bladder fortification,
which does not respond to conventional therapy. (It can be paired with
Raven for added support.)
Raven™: Also utilized for respiratory and urinary
tract support, Raven is more powerful than R.C. and features essentials
oils not found in the latter. Combined, the two oils are highly
Di-Gize™: The gastrointestinal system responds well to this blend. Nutmeg and ginger can be added for additional support.
M-Grain™: Provides relief from head discomfort resulting from sinus pressure.
PanAway®: With osteoarthritis common in older pets,
PanAway is valuable for relieving discomfort and relaxing the muscles,
ligaments, and tendons. This oil blend can be used alone or in addition
to other essential oils that aid in general discomfort. Using a moist
towel over the area increases the effectiveness of the oils.
Relieve It™: Especially beneficial for relieving discomfort, Relieve It can be alternated with PanAway for a wider spectrum of relief.
Peace & Calming®: If stress, fear, anxiety, or
other similar conditions are present, Peace & Calming can be used to
calm a pet. If the pet is injured, Peace & Calming can relax the
animal enough to administer other treatments. This blend can also been
used on cats who are resistant to other forms of treatment for urinary
problems or excessive grooming resulting from stress.
Tip: You would want in your Pet First Aid Kit the following YL products:
Animal Scents Ointment
Animal Scents Shampoo
V-6 Massage Oil
Bandages, scissors, tweezers, cotton gauze pads, cotton balls, and any other supplies for the special needs of your pet
More information from this article, click here __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Miniature Australian Shepherd has an easy to care for coat that is not
as problematic as some of the double coated breeds. The thicker,
slightly coarse and straight outer coat is simple to brush using a pin
brush or stiff bristle brush. Always start by grooming the outer coat in
the direction of growth which is slightly back and down. After this is
completed, start at the shoulders and push the longer hair forward,
exposing the dense, downy undercoat, brush this again the direction of
growth, moving down the back and sides. Pay particular attention to the
hair round the neck, the furnishings on the legs and the hair on the
rump as these can be areas for matting and tangling.
the Miniature Australian Shepherd is an average shedder however they
will shed their coats heavily in the spring and fall. During these times
the inner coat will come out in chunks or clumps and can become very
matted. Daily brushing will both help speed up the shedding as well as
prevent these mats from forming. If mats do form in the hair that is
being shed they may need to be cut out using blunt ended scissors.
Miniature Australian Shepherd should not be clipped or trimmed for show
and typically should not require any type of clipping or trimming.
Puppies have shorter coats that will not reach their full adult coat
length until about a year of age. The Miniature Australian Shepherd has
natural oils in the hair to keep the dog dry and warm even in cold or
damp conditions so it is not advisable to bathe this breed unless
absolutely necessary. Dry dog powder is often used between wet baths
just to help remove dirt from the hair.
Thinking about a mixed breed (designer dog)???
"Adorable Mixed Breeds" get cancer, epilepsy, allergies, heart disease, and orthopedic problems just like purebreds. I see it every day in my veterinary practice but mixed breed dogs aren't tracked like the purebreds so they have a reputation as "healthier" that is actually undeserved in many cases". Dr Libbye Miller, DVM
Most mixed breeds are a result of accidental breedings or a fad of "designer dogs". If they are producing these dogs are they testing parents for all that their breed has a problem with? Is it their goal to cross them for a specific reason - such as becoming service dogs? Quality bred purebreds are/should be the result of planned breedings to produce better dogs. Crossbreds are just randomly produced and carry the same genes as purebreds but without knowledge of what to avoid, creating a risk of a dog with inherited problems higher than purebreds. Breed clubs spend time, energy and money developing tests for any health issues in their breed which crossbreds do not receive. Mixed breeds are a product of their parents - if you breed a Lab with hip dysplasia to a standard poodle with epilepsy you may get Labradoodles with both!
Some breeds have more health issues, but the Australian shepherd is healthier than many. Maybe it's because they are such a functional breed. Other breeds have specific jobs whereas aussies are used for many different things.
While you are seeking your new puppy PLEASE do NOT purchase a puppy from a petstore, in front of the local shop, or from a breeder who cannot/will not give you proof of all the parent's testing. Mini Aussies are a popular breed and this attracts back yard breeders as well as puppy mills. This will only encourage bad conditions they may have to live in. Ask the breeder many questions and be sure they are involved in their breed club. Do not buy from breeders who are breeding just for money or to "fill a need" in the area. Only buy from those who are seriously bettering the breed. You will pay as much or almost as much at a petstore and you will know nothing of the parents - health issues, personality issues, etc. If people stop buying from them they will stop selling them!
(more info below under, "Why the difference in price?")
Why male puppies may be better for you than females!!!
We have found that many people want a girl puppy, but listen to what Hogan Kennels says about girls vs. boys. You may change your mind.
Many people believe that female dogs make better pets...female preference seems to be ingrained in these people. Most calls for pet dogs have people wanting a 'sweet girl'. They don't think females display alpha behaviors like 'marking' and/or 'humping'. They believe that they are more docile and attentive and do not participate in fighting over dominance. This simply is not the case.
In the dog pack makeup, females usually rule the roost, determine pecking order, and who competes to maintain and/or alter that order. The females are, as a result, more independent, stubborn, and territorial than their male counterparts. The females are much more intent upon exercising their dominance by participating in alpha behaviors such as 'humping'. There IS a reason people utilize the technical dog term of 'bitch' in a negative way-and it refers directly to the behaviors exhibited by the females of the dog world. Most fights will usually break out between 2 females. Males, on the other hand, are usually more affectionate, exuberant, attentive, and more demanding of attention. They are very attached to their people. They also tend to be more steadfast, reliable, and less moody. They are more outgoing, more accepting of other pets, and take quicker to children. Most boys are easily motivated by food (how true!!) and praise, and so eager to please that training is easy. However, males can be more easily distracted during training, as males like to play so often. And no matter what age, he is more likely to act silly and more puppy-like, always wanting to play games. Boys are fun loving until the day they die. Females tend to be more reserved or dignified as they age. Witness the human equivalent of the twinkling eyed Grandpa still playing catch at age 70, while Grandma quietly observes from the porch.
Neutered males rarely exhibit secondary sexual behavior such as 'humping', or 'marking' and lifting of legs. Once the testosterone levels recede after neutering, most of these behaviors (if they ever existed) will disappear. Boys who were neutered early (by 5 months of age) usually don't ever raise their leg to urinate.
And while the female will usually come to you for attention, when she's had enough, she will move away, while boys are always waiting for your attention and near at hand. Females are usually less distracted during training, as she is more eager to get it over with, and get back to her comfy spot on the couch. The female is less likely to wage a dominance battle with YOU, but she can be cunning and resourceful in getting her own way. She is much more prone to mood swings. One day she may be sweet and affectionate-the next day reserved and withdrawn or even grumpy. The female also has periods of being 'in heat' unless she is spayed. Seasonal heats can be a month long nightmare-not just for the female, but you and every male dog in the neighborhood. If you are not breeding, you'd be best off to have her spayed. Since during this time she can leave a bloody discharge on carpets, couches, or anywhere she goes. She will be particularly moody and emotional during this time. A walk outside during this period can become hazardous if male dogs are in the vicinity, and she will leave a 'scent' for wandering intact males to follow right to your yard, where they will hang out, and 'wait' for days.
Before deciding on male or female, give consideration to any other dogs that may be in or around your home.
***Thank you to Hogan Kennels for providing this article. You can visit them at www.hogankennels.com
click here for article-PUPPY BUYER ETIQUETTE -Basically mentions to be willing to find a breeder not just looking for a puppy at a certain time, work with that breeder, be willing to accept the word "NO, this puppy is not right for you", expect to wait for the right puppy, do not get on more than 1 waiting list, introduce yourself fully, & do not expect to choose your puppy
From $500 to $2500, puppies come with many different price tags. Some may be given free, and others may exceed even this range. But where do these figures come from?
Puppy sellers come in several categories. They include show breeders, working and sporting dog breeders, puppy mill or commercial kennel breeders, pet shop retailers, and backyard breeders.
Breeders of show, working, and sporting dogs generally offer health guarantees, an indication of a confident, well-considered breeding and are truly dedicated to their breed. The passion these breeders have for their breed helps them continue their journey to produce genetically sound dogs. They spend hours researching, reading, about history, pedigrees, structure, breed-type, health, temperment, training, nutrition, and so on. They do all the testing necessary for their breed. They spay/neuter the dogs that would pass on inheritated traits that could harm the puppies in the future. They feed the best feeds and supplements, and make sacrifices to pursue their passion. Many show in agility, conformation, frisbee, herding, or use them on their farms/ranches. These are the breeders we prefer to support when looking for a puppy. They may charge more for their puppies, but it shows in the quality and health of the pups they produce. It costs a lot of money to do the testing, buy the higher quality dogfoods, etc. but they are worth it!!!These breeders also stand behind their puppies, offering a lifetime of support and advice. They will take a dog/puppy back or help you find a new home if you absolutely cannot keep a dog.
Puppy mills and commercial kennels are the main contributors to pet shops. Their goal is to produce lots of puppies for profit. Puppies are a commodity. Puppy mills may be raided by animal control for horrid, deplorable conditions. Quality is not a top concern in this part of the industry.
Puppies are often sold to pet stores at wholesale prices and resold to the public at "show " prices. The cost of overhead, especially mall rental property requires the store owner to charge exorbitant prices for their "products." Compulsive buyers and the high degree of foot traffic supports these establishments. Before making a financial and emotional commitment, prospective buyers should contact the area’s humane society and Better Business Bureau for information.
Backyard breeders are the main contributors of puppies. This term applies to all who breed with little knowledge of bloodlines, breed standard, or proper temperament and structure. Their breeding animals are not screened for potential inherent problems prevalent in the breed, nor are the dogs proven under the well-educated eye of a judge in the show ring or at a trial. Some say they breed for "family pets" as if an excuse to not have quality dogs. Even if a breeder does not show their dogs they still should strive to produce the best they can - meeting the breed standard and producing happy, healthy pups. You would like your new family member to live a long time, right? And be in your family a long time? So it must have the temperment and health to fill that need. Good structure also helps a dog stay sound and active longer than a poorly structured dog.
Some breeders have too many dogs or breed more than one breed. These cannot dedicate the needed time to really learning about their individual dogs or all they can about each breed. When you see litters for sale and no pictures/information of the parents anywhere else on their website does that make you question why??? We put ALL our dogs on our website and all the information we can give you on each dog. We do NOT hide dogs or information from you and are honest with what we tell you. When we say WE - we mean 74 Ranch and Peakview Aussies. 74 Ranch has 5 females, Peakview has 2 females at/in their home. Our males (on the site) live with someone else but we use it in our breeding program when it will compliment a particular female. 74 Ranch also has 2 co-owned females that live in partner homes.
Some Aussie breeders may use dogs in their breeding program strictly for eye color or size or another superficial trait at the expense of health/quality.
Safety Tips for Kids and Pets (from ASPCA)
* Talk to your children about your pet's "body language." They give warning signs that mean, "leave me alone"
* Make sure your children don't bother puppy while it is eatting or when it goes to it's bed, crate, or 'safe spot'
* Teach your children and puppy to respect each other and 'play nice"
* Train your dog to respond to the word "stop". Teach your kids to use that word (instead of screaming or running away) if the dog gets overexcited.
* Don't let your pet play with your child's toys... or vice versa.
* If your children are old enough, let them take some responsibility for caring for the puppy. Set reasonable consequences if they neglect their duties.
Give your dog a head start on a happy life by making his first day a great one. Your puppy's first day in your home is one of the most important times in his young life. Try to make it one of his best days.
It's very important for your dog to be wearing an ID tag from the first day he is at your home. Before you bring your new dog or puppy home, have the tag ready for him. If you haven't chosen a name for your dog yet, just put your address and phone number on it.
The first thing you are going to want to do is hold your puppy. You might want to hold him all the time. But it is very important for your puppy to have a chance to meet the other people in your family. He also needs to explore his new home. Holding your puppy is important so he learns to love you, but on the first day, hold him only a few minutes at a time.
You and your parents should get your house ready before your pup comes home. Puppy-proofing your house will keep your new pup safe from danger.
Puppy-proof your house:
1. Make sure cords and wires are not where your dog can reach them.
2. Place trash in cupboards or have your parents get trash cans with lids.
3. Ask your folks to remove dangerous liquids, like cleaners and antifreeze.
4. Clear off tables that your pup might reach.
Have a couple of toys ready for your dog to play with. He may not want to play the first day, but they will be there if he does.
Have a place for your dog to sleep. A crate makes a great bed. When your puppy is resting, he can be in a private place where no one will bother him. If you don't have a crate, put his bed somewhere that is cozy, comfortable, and private for him.
Your pup will probably need to go to the bathroom soon after he arrives. It would be a good idea to take him outside before he begins to explore your home. Praise him when he goes.
Give your new dog time to explore your house, but don't leave him alone. You can stand behind him and follow him to the places he wants to go. Be very gentle. Only hold him a little bit.
Joining the Family: The best place for your new dog to meet your other dog for the first time is outside--in your yard (fenced) or in a park (on a leash). When they are comfortable with each other, bring them indoors.
Quiet, please! Your puppy will do better if your house is quiet. Loud noises may scare him. Later, when he is used to your house, you can introduce new sounds slowly.
Give your pup some water right away if he's thirsty. Wait and give your dog some food after he has been home for a while and is feeling more comfortable. Don't forget to let him outside every time he drinks or eats.
It is very important to know what Humane means: Humane means acting kind, gentle, and generous toward your pets. Your new puppy needs to feel safe at all times. You can help him to feel that way by being humane to him. TIP: Don't start any training on this first day. This is your pup's day to meet everyone.
It might be very tempting to take your dog out and show him off to your friends, but you need to wait a few weeks. First, let your pup get comfortable at home and with everyone that lives in your house. Then, after your pup has had it's shots to protect him from illness, take him out for short walks not very far from your house. Always remember to tell your pup he is doing a great job.
Don't put your puppy on the ground where unknown animals have been until he's had all his puppy shots. This is how he picks up diseases.
Don't allow your puppy to become unnecessarily frightened in his first few months of life. Introduce loud noises (vacuum cleaners, hair driers, etc.) carefully and slowly. Lifetime phobias for your puppy are imprinted during these early months.
Don't overtax your new puppy. He needs lots of sleep and tires quickly. Be aware of signs of hypoglycemia in small puppies.
Don't allow your puppy around dogs you don't know to be safe and friendly or around rough children. Your puppy is breakable.
Don't ignore your puppy's whining when confined in his crate. Take him out to potty, even if it hasn't been long since his last visit outside and you suspect he just wants attention. If he goes to the bathroom, praise him and allow him to remain out of his crate for a while. If he doesn't, return him to the crate. However, don't reward your puppy for whining by taking him out of his crate just to play or cuddle. Wait until he's quiet--then take him out!
Don't allow your puppy to expect to always be held or played with. Accustom your puppy to quiet times and being alone for short periods of time. This will prevent separation anxiety later.
Don't allow your puppy to feel abandoned by leaving him unattended for long periods of time. Know that love and attention are just as important as food and air to an animal who was born to be a companion to his master.
Don't forget to praise your puppy. Praise is a stronger motivator than harsh words or discipline for a puppy who lives to please.
Be sure to read about the drug sensitivity aussies can have our main mini aussie page at the bottom.
It is very important to know what humane means: Humane means acting kind, gentle, and generous toward your pets. Your new puppy needs to feel safe at all times. You can help him to feel that way by being humane to him.
Puppy Proof your Home
1. Secure electrical cords to baseboards or make them inaccessible. Apply dishsoap to any cord visible, puppies don't like the taste.
2. Never allow burning candles to be accessible to pups, the flame attracts them
3. Keep medications away from puppies - Childproof containers are not enough.
4. Keep the toilet lid down.
5. Keep cellar doors, staircase doors, upper story windows closed to curious puppies.
6. Dispose of chicken or turkey bones. They will search the trash for them.
7. Don't leave needles or pins out where puppy can get to them, they may swallow them.
8. ABSOLUTELY KEEP ANTI-FREEZE away from puppies/dogs and use pesticides with caution (fly strips, cleaners, etc.)
9. Keep puppies away from toxic plants.
10. Do not use flea collars or dips until after 4 months old, or older if your vet recommends it. Never give medications containing IVERMECTIN
A Dogs Plea
Treat me kingly my beloved friend,
for no other heart
in all the world
Is more grateful than the loving heart of me.
Speak to me often, for your voice is the world’s sweetest music, as you must
Know by the fierce wagging of my tail when your footstep falls upon my ear.
Please take me inside when it is cold and wet, or hot and dry, for I am a domesticated animal, no longer accustomed to bitter elements.
Keep my pan filled with fresh water, for I cannot tell you when I suffer thirst. Feed me with clean food that I may stay well, to romp and play by your side, and stand ready, willing, and able to protect you with my life, should your life be in danger.
And my friend,… when I am very old and I no longer enjoy good health, hearing and sight, do not make heroic efforts to keep me going. I am not having fun. Please see that my trusting life is taken gently. I shall leave knowing with my last breath, that my fate was always safest in your hands.
Go to MASCA for more info on history, activities, breed standard and colors & patterns
"How Could You?"
Even though our contract says we get first option back if you cannot keep a dog from us for some reason, we had a client
send 2 puppies to the rescue (above) so this article touched us greatly!
The blue merle girl ended up in a wonderful new home but we never heard about the red tri boy (partial right blue eye). If you've seen him please let us know how he is!
Please BE SURE before you make the commitment to buy that puppy.
When I was a puppy, I entertained you with my antics and made you laugh. You called me your child, and despite a number of chewed shoes and a couple of murdered throw pillows, I became your best friend. Whenever I was "bad", you'd shake your finger at me and ask "how could you?" But then you'd relent, and roll me over for a belly rub. My housebreaking took a little longer than expected, because you were terribly busy, but we worked on that together. I remember those nights of nuzzling you in bed and listening to your confidences and secret dreams, and I believed that life could not be anymore perfect. We went for long walks and runs in the park, car rides, stops for ice cream (I only got the cone because "ice cream is bad for dogs," you said), and I took long naps in the sun waiting for you to come home at the end of the day.
Gradually, you began spending more time at work and on your career, and more time searching for a human mate. I waited for you patiently, comforted you through heartbreaks and disappointments, never chided you about bad decisions, and romped with glee at your homecomings, and when you fell in love. She, now your wife, is not a "dog person" still I welcomed her into our home, tried to show her affection, and obeyed her. I was happy because you were happy. Then the human babies came along and I shared your excitement. I was fascinated by their pinkness, how they smelled, and I wanted to mother them too. Only she and you worried that I might hurt them, and I spent most of my time banished to another room, or to a dog crate. Oh, how I wanted to love them, but I became a "prisoner of love". As they began to grow, I became their friend. They clung to my fur and pulled themselves up on wobbly legs, poked fingers in my eyes, investigated my ears, and gave me kisses on my nose. I loved everything about them and their touch-- because your touch was now so infrequent--and I would have defended them with my life if need be. I would sneak into their beds and listen to their worries and secret dreams, and together we waited for the sound of your car in the driveway. There had been a time, when others asked you if you had a dog, that you produced a photo of me from your wallet and told them stories about me. These past few years, you just answered "yes" and changed the subject. I had gone from being "your dog" to "just a dog," and you resented every expenditure on my behalf.
Now, you have a new career opportunity in another city, and you and they will be moving to an apartment that does not allow pets. You've made the right decision for your "family," but there was a time when I was your only family. I was excited about the car ride until we arrived at the animal shelter. It smelled of dogs and cats, of fear, of hopelessness. You filled out the paperwork and said "I know you will find a good home for her." They shrugged and gave you a pained look. They understood the realities facing a middle-aged dog, even one with "papers." You had to prise your son's fingers loose from my collar as he screamed "No Daddy! Please don't let them take my dog!" And I worried for him, and what lessons you had just taught him about friendship and loyalty, about love and responsibility, and about respect for all life. You gave me a good-bye pat on the head, avoided my eyes, and politely refused to take my collar and leash with you. You had a deadline to meet and now I have one, too. After you left, the two nice ladies said you probably knew about your upcoming move months ago and made no attempt to find me another good home. They shook their heads and asked "How could you?"
They are as attentive to us here in the shelter as their busy schedules allow. They feed us, of course, but I lost my appetite days ago. At first, whenever anyone passed my pen, I rushed to the front, hoping it was you, that you had changed your mind -- that this was all a bad dream...or I hoped it would at least be someone who cared, anyone who might save me. When I realised I could not compete with the frolicking for attention of happy puppies, oblivious to their own fate. I retreated to a far corner and waited. I heard her footsteps as she came for me at the end of the day, and I padded along the aisle after her to a seperate room. A blissfully quiet room. she placed me on the table and rubbed my ears, and told me not to worry. My heart pounded in anticipation of what was to come, but there was also a sense of relief. The prisoner of love had run out of days. As is my nature, I was more concerned about her. The burden which she bears weighs heavily on her, and I know that, the same way I knew your every mood. She gently placed a tourniquet around my foreleg as a tear ran down her cheek. I licked her hand in the same way I used to comfort you so many years ago. She expertly slid the hypodermic needle into my vein. As I felt the sting and the cool liquid coursing through my body, I lay down sleepily, looked into her kind eyes and murmured "How could you?" Perhaps because she understood my dogspeak, she said "I'm so sorry." She hugged me, and hurriedly explained that it was her job to make sure I went to a better place, where I wouldn't be ignored or abused or abandoned, or have to fend for myself -- a place of love and light so very different from this earthly place. And with my last bit of energy, I tried to convey to her with a thump of my tail that my "How could you?" was not directed at her.
It was you, My Beloved Master, I was thinking of. I will think of you and wait for you forever.
May everyone in your life continue to show you so much loyalty.
A note from the author: Jim Wills, 2001 -- If "How Could You?" brought tears to your eyes as you read it, as it did to mine as I wrote it, It is because it is the composite story of the millions of formerly owned pets who die every year in Animal Shelters around the world. Anyone is welcome to distribute the essay for a noncommercial purpose, as long as it is properly attributed. Please use it to help educate, on your websites, in your newsletters, on animal shelters and Vet office bulletin boards. Tell the public that the decision to add a pet to the family is an important one for life, that animals deserve our love and sensible care, that finding another appropriate home for your animal is your responsibility and any local humane society or animal welfare league can offer you good advice, and that all life is precious. Please do your part to stop the killing, and encourage all spay and neuter campaigns in order to prevent unwanted animals.
and Michele Herbst 74 Ranch
Torrington, Wyoming 82240
307-788-1303 (cell) 307-534-5475